Bees are used to hiding their homes in hollows or dense crowns of trees. Therefore, in order for insects to more quickly acclimatize in a new environment, experienced beekeepers are trying to create optimal conditions for bees to breed and create delicious honey. In this article, you will learn how to create a hive with your own hands, what are the best materials for bee shelter and options for arrangement.
Basic design elements
Before you create a design sketch, you need to know what the hive for bees consists of. This is due to the fact that the beekeeper is trying to create insects such housing that supports their biological needs. However, such a construction will not always be convenient for bees. 
Basically, All hive designs consist of a shell, two compartments, a lid and a magazine. Externally, it looks like an elongated box with a dense roof and bottom.
Shells consist of walls. Dimensions depend on the type of construction. There may be several. On the walls are bee-gots.
A store may not be necessary, however, it is suitable for the preservation of honey when honey collection occurs. There is also an under cover (another version of the store, but without grooves). It is located between the roof and the top. It serves as a heater. You can also install a bee feeder in the liner.
The bottom is under the case and can be removable and non-removable. The first option allows you to properly care for the bees, if they need medical assistance. Non-removable forms a protrusion that serves as a landing area for bees. 
Some beekeepers make a ceiling that will keep warm inside the hive. You can arrange it at the top of the nest above the frames.
The roof is the protection and the main element of the hive. She is able to hide insects from atmospheric phenomena. The roof is flat and gable. The first allows you to transport the hive.
The frame is used for arranging the honeycomb bees. It consists of an upper and lower bar, as well as two side bars. The frames are equipped with dividers and are located in the bar on top.
How to choose materials and tools for creating
To create a hive, only natural and high-quality materials are used. In the following sections you will be able to understand what is needed to build a nest, as well as learn the advantages and disadvantages of each material.
Most popular materials
The first and quite popular material to create a hive - tree. He breathes well and blows steam out. Coniferous wood, such as pine, cedar, spruce and fir, is mainly chosen. You can also take poplar, linden or aspen. Wood has a low level of thermal conductivity, protecting bees in hot and cold weather.
Important! For making hives, choose a material on which there are no rotten areas, knots and cracks.The only drawback of this material is the ability to retain moisture that enters the hive.
Plywood hives are characterized as environmentally friendly and durable. They are quite heavy and tolerate transportation. Plywood is superior to wood in terms of heat insulation and dryness. 
To do this, you need to cover the plywood with special acrylic paint and insulate the walls of the hive with polystyrene foam.
In such beehives, bees spend less energy on heating, because inside all the comfortable conditions for living and producing honey are created.
Honey is the most famous, but not the only product of beekeeping. For many years, mankind has been widely using other products that produce bees: pollen, bee venom, wax, propolis, porem, drone milk.
Many beekeepers choose expanded polystyrene, as it is cheap and has a high level of thermal insulation. It is easy to work and carry out repairs. 
The only drawbacks of this material are low strength properties and an unpleasant taste of honey, since bees can taste expanded polystyrene.
If you want to produce honey, but you have a small amount of cash, then you can make a hive out of foam plastic. The design turns out to be quite light, retains warmth in winter and maintains coolness in summer.
The only drawback - painting the finished hive to protect the foam from atmospheric phenomena. 
Polyurethane foam used for building insulation. It has a low level of thermal conductivity, but this property will be useful for creating a hive. Polyurethane foam does not let moisture in, does not rot, does not react to solvents and protects the nest from germs and fungi. The material is quite durable, and mice can not damage it.
The only downside is combustibility. But this can be corrected with an additional ventilation system.
Polycarbonate differs in durability, ease and durability. Material suitable for the maintenance of insects, as it can withstand low and high temperatures, it is not afraid of exposure to direct sun. 
Inside the nest of this material will be maintained an optimal microclimate for bees.
List of tools for creating a home for bees
To create a hive, you will need the following tools:
- Ax
- Hacksaws of different sizes
- Hammer
- Drills
- Fuganka
- Bit
- Plane
- Marking tool
- Power tools
- Corner spikes
- PVA glue"
- Nesting frame (you can take at the time of an experienced beekeeper).
How to make a hive with your own hands
Now that you have chosen the optimal material for yourself and collected all the necessary tools, we proceed to the most important thing. In the following sections, you will learn how to build a beehive for bees from different materials. 
Wooden
For the manufacture of the hive, choose wooden boards with moisture, which varies in the region of 15-16%. Depending on the number and size of the body is selected and the amount of material. Drawings are better to take from experienced beekeepers.
Important! Adhere to the main parameters of the main elements to simplify operation.
Hive housing
You will also need boards 4 cm thick for making the bottom and hull. In the boards we make grooves for connecting the walls of the hull.
We produce strips of size 18x4 mm.
We connect the boards into shields, greasing the grooves with white glue. It is very important to press them tightly to each other so that gaps do not form. 
And so we do 4 walls. You need to assemble the case in the form of shields, which can be joined with the help of a tongue and casein glue. The dimensions of the rear and front walls of 605x320 mm. Side walls - 530х320 mm. In the side walls we make grooves 5 mm deep and 20 mm wide.
Important! Distance between grooves - 450 mm.Getting to the creation of the rear and front walls. They should be assembled into temporary boards from boards (thickness - 15 mm). The dimensions of the walls are 675x500 mm. The dimensions of the outer side walls - 560x500 mm.
On a permanent place boards outer walls need to be nailed separately in order to properly fit to the place. The inner walls are fixed with glue, the corners must be fixed strictly straight. The lower edge of the case is better positioned horizontally.
Lower and upper trays
The lower tray should be made in the following sizes - 1x25 cm, positioning it from 5 cm from the right wall of the hive. The top tray has dimensions of 1x10 cm; it should be positioned at a distance of 12 cm from the right wall of the hive. Its height is 3 cm below the edge of the upper bars of the frame. 
Subframe space
In the back wall at the bottom level it is necessary to make a wedge-shaped hole to make it easier to deal with varroa. It can be closed with an insert (size 45x4 cm).
With the help of the holes for the trays, you enclose the interstitial space of the hive with small corridors of planks. Dimensions - 1.5x2 cm.
Floor
In parallel with the front inner wall on the case we will nail the first layer of the floor. The length of the floor is 65 cm. The first board should be positioned so that it protrudes 1 cm beyond the body. On this ledge we make arrival boards. Then we beat the rest of the floorboards. After that, turn the case upside down and lay a layer of cardboard and roofing material. The next layer of the floor - boards.
External walls
After you have done the floor and nailed the inner walls, install the outer walls. Front and rear are tipped from the bottom of the body each. The ends should protrude 2 cm beyond the side inner walls. At this time we lay the insulation between the walls. In the front board should cut holes for the tray. In the back wall should be a hole for the subframe space.
Also, for sustainability it is necessary to nail the lining to the angular outer walls.
At the ends of the back and front walls, which project 2 cm beyond the side inner walls, lateral outer boards 15 cm thick should be filled. 4x2 cm strips should be nailed around the entire perimeter of the inner walls.
On the front and back sides of the hive, folds should be selected (dimensions 1x1 cm) to set the frames. The slats must be positioned tightly on the insulation material. 
Warming material
To fill the interstitial space you need to use moss. It should be more dried up, since such a moss will fill voids well.
Also used foam, insulation board, wool, wool and tow.
Roof
Since beekeepers often have to raise the roof and put it back, the product should be light. This requires a harness. It should be done with a height of 12 cm from boards with a thickness of 15 cm. 
Above the nest under the roof, it is necessary to leave a free space of 24 cm in height. In this place we have a semi-frame shop and a heating cushion.
Pillow
The pillow is placed between the sides on the canvas so that it fits snugly against the walls of the board.
The pillow takes 1 cm above the nest. Dimensions - 75x53. Packing thickness is 10 cm. You can also use moss, but it is best to use it for warming the side walls.
Bee Entry
Between the bottom and the bottom edge of the hull, leave 1 cm for the passage of bees and ventilation in the winter.
Did you know? It is better to paint the hive white, since this color is better remembered by insects.
From foam
To make a foam hive, you will need foam leaves, self-tapping screws (5 cm), sandpaper of a small grain, water-based paint, liquid nails, a paint roller, a ruler, a screwdriver (screwdriver), a stationery knife and a circular saw. 
Important! All objects of the hive are connected in the same way as the wooden bases of the nest for bees.The sheets of foam should be of the following sizes - 3x5 cm. On paper, prepare a sketch of the structure and transfer it to the foam using a marker and ruler.
Cut out the design with a stationery knife, saw or hacksaw. Edge we clean the sandpaper. 
The side walls are fastened with overlaps (at the joints, cut the quarters and tightly drive the walls into each other). Elements are fixed with liquid nails.
To secure the result, use the screws on the perimeter. 
Polyurethane
Housing
For the case you will need 8 metal plates. Four plates will form an outer contour, and the remaining four will form an inner. Spacers must be installed between opposite inner plates. The outer tiles should be bolted.
To the inner sides of the outer tiles need to fasten the metal lining, forming in the body notches for gripping.
The base and cover are made with grooves. The plates will be inserted into them. Along the edges impose strips of metal and bolt the details.
Drill holes along the inner and outer perimeter of the case and cover. When assembling, they will insert threaded metal rods into them.
Bolts should be screwed onto the rods, holding the entire structure firmly. In the lid should make holes for pouring the mixture and the valve with a plug. They will close this hole. Bottom and roof
The roof needs 2 rectangular parts. One should have protruding sides at the edges, the other one should have a projecting rectangular inner part.
The bottom is a rectangular frame with a metal grid in the middle. It is made from individual polyurethane foam bars. Bolt them together.
You should have 4 forms for bars. In all the bars you need to put along the inner perimeter of a strip of metal that will form folds. We put and weave a metal grid on them with a stapler.
The front bar is better to have lower height to get a slot for the tray. After casting with a mill, select the grooves in the inner side walls for the bottom valve. Cut it out of polycarbonate. The rear bar is also positioned lower in height to insert the latch into this slot. Preparation of a mixture of polyurethane foam
This material is obtained by the reaction of polyol and polyisozonat.
When pouring the mixture, it is necessary to correctly calculate the total mass for the process. This can be done by calculating the volume of the hive part: multiply it by the width, thickness and length. The resulting amount must be multiplied by the coefficient of technological losses (1.15) and the estimated density of polyurethane foam (60 kg / m2).
For a single hive shell with a thickness of 5 cm, about 1.5 kg of polyol and 1.7 kg of polyisoconate are consumed.
Important! It is necessary to fill in mix very quickly within 10 seconds as it quickly hardens.For mixing and pouring there are special devices that provide and heating the mixture. However, you can do with a construction mixer. To do this, you need to pour polyisozonate into a flexible container and immediately start mixing it with a mixer. Then pour in the polyol and mix the mixture for 3 seconds. After that, the finished polyurethane foam is quickly poured into the mold.
Preparing and casting into forms
The part of the form that will come into contact with the mixture should be treated with a solution of wax in gasoline.
Important! It is necessary to use only its light and settled part.After processing, collect the form. The inner plates are installed in the grooves of the base, and inside the plates should be put plastic corners that will serve as folds for the frames. Corners can be fastened with a thick thread.
Install and fasten them with screws and braces internal struts. Then we install the outer plates and fasten them with bolts, superimposing the top of the form with grooves on the walls. We twist all this with metal rods.
In this form we pour polyurethane foam mixture into the holes, but not completely, as it expands. As soon as the foam starts to show from the hole, the form must be closed with a valve.
In the same way we do the filling of the forms for the cover and the bottom. After pouring the mold for the lid, pour a small amount of gravel into it so that the lid stays steady during gusts of wind.
Extract
The mixture hardens within 30 minutes. After that, unwind the bolts that hold the rods. Using a wooden block and a hammer we knock down the upper part of the form.
After that, unscrew the bolts on the edges of the form, doing it little by little, so as not to deform the structure. So we pass two circles on all the bolts, after which we remove the struts. 
Parts of the form are cleaned of polyurethane foam particles, and the excess at the edges of the case can be removed with a sharp knife. After which the design is cleaned with a fine-grained skin.
Then the product is covered with facade acrylic paint to protect the hive from ultraviolet radiation. Such a coating will not be affected by temperature changes.
Coloring occurs within a week after production, but not earlier than 8 hours.
Hive arrangement
Now you should deal with the device of the hive for bees.
In the American way of brooding bees, 5 types of insect families are created in an apiary: maternal, paternal, starter, incubator and family-teacher. For this method, you need to have a hive-bed for 24 frames, notches, two diaphragms that will move freely in the hive, one blind diaphragm with a rubber band, one diaphragm with a separation grid. Also needed trough and pillows. 
In the fall or spring we settle a family with a good tribal queen. In the fall, they are fed with honey and perga, they are treated for varroosis and they are prevented by anti-haematics. In the spring of insects fed honeycomb with perga.
Did you know? Fumigation does not soothe bees, but only simulates a fire. Bees eat a lot of honey and fly away to another place.These designs can be repeated only if there is a sketch of the hive. What material will be better for your hive - you choose. Use our instructions for creating the best hive.
